Kia Ora, Aotearoa: Paihia and the Bay of Islands

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The Bay of Islands is one of NZ’s most historic and beautiful areas, and the place that Kiwis flock to in droves during the summer months. The area has 144 islands, and the water is aquamarine in color. This is the first place Capt. James Cook landed and the first contact between the Maori and the Europeans (peaceful) in 1769. Three years later the dumb-ass Frenchman Du Fresne acting like a Frenchman got himself killed. The French figured killing, say, 250 Maori should make up for it.

By the end of the 18^th century, the town now called Russell (across the bay from Paihia) was a den of iniquity for whalers and timber robbers. It was nicknamed “the hellhole of the Pacific”. Now it’s a tourist trap (think Friday Harbor).

Just across the bridge from Paihia is the Waitangi Treaty grounds where the Maori gave away their land in exchange for becoming British subjects and protection from the French. Of course they want it all back now.

I’m told that the population of Paihia fluctuates from 7,000 to 30,000 as the tourist season gets into full swing. Lucky for us, only morons travel at this time of year, so we had our pick of motels. We settled on a place called The Aloha Motel. It was just far enough out of town, and virtually empty. I’d guess maybe half a dozen rooms occupied at best. It had a great view over the next harbor around the bend from Paihia, and easily the best place we’ve stayed yet. Cars and accommodations are very inexpensive here. For places like this one the going rate (this time of year) is about $100 NZD. This equates to $60 US, which at home gets you a rat-infested room at the Motel 6.

The town is exactly as you’d expect; the streets lined with motels, shops and restaurants. There are an infinite number of “Information” kiosks which are booking agents for everything you can think of; fishing charters, parasailing, heli-sightseeing, sailing, yada, yada, yada.

The first thing I asked the motel manager was where to fish. Unlike Puget Sound, and the passage north which is teeming with life, the tropics are a veritable underwater desert. That’s why the water is so clear. My marine biology professor would be so proud of me for remembering that. The point being, that until the water warms up here, there are no fish in close. But I’m stubborn. “Come back in December” they say. I proved them wrong!

Alas, on our last day there I broke down and went out on a charter with the experts. $200 and four hours later we came home with two legal (barely) Snapper. Not bad. Only $200 for $17 worth of fish. Got some nice pictures though.

That evening, the motel owner told us how to go to the beach and find Pipis. These are clams. You wade around in shallow water until you feel them under your feet. Once you find them, they are all only about 2” down, and you can get a “feed” (Kiwi unit of measure) of them in about 15 minutes.